Hawaii’s Wild Side

Millions of people visit Hawaii each year. Visions of soft sand beaches, hypnotic surf, and tropical drinks under the sun inspire tourists. The outerwear of work and wretched weather are peeled off upon arrival of the Hawaiian Islands. A respite of relaxation awaits.

We wanted to break that vision on this trip.

The goal was to find and experience Hawaii’s other side: the wild, active one. We actually sought out the rain, mud, cliffs, snow and the mist of the Big Island of Hawaii. (Yes, snow.) We knew that Kona’s sun is almost always shining if needed. And, that west coast sun is just an hour or two away from almost any point on the Island.

We were rewarded with:

Encounters of wild pigs tearing through the underbelly of the jungles
Wild horses on a black sand beach
Some of the world’s biggest telescopes in a sea of snow
A wild Hawaiian monk seal basking on a beach near Kona
Steaming vents and lava tube tunnels
A barefoot walk through one of earth’s few green sand beaches Speaking of green, the giant turtles nesting on the rocks and floating in their native homes were easy to find at stops along the coast.

Mai Tais on the beach? None for now, but thanks anyway.

Manini’owali Beach, near Kona. OK: not so wild but a good starting point

Wild Animals and Wild Places of Hawaii

Standing with toes in the black crescent shaped beach with 2,000 foot green cliffs to the north and south is a sight best seen with the human eyes. Photographs of Waipio Valley don’t do it justice. Viewing the Hi’ilawe Falls, one of the tallest in all the of the Islands is an experience enhanced by the tropical air, vegetation and waters below. While they were flowing in January of 2020, they are not always.

The wild horses of the Waipio Valley enjoy the towering twin Hi’ilawe Falls on the west side of the valley (1,400 ft drops) and a magical black sand beach on east. In the lush valley between, they roam. And, horses, being horses, they eat. We saw many from a distance and up close. A foal napped by a stream, another let me get close enough to see a mane filled with burrs. They are used to humans, and noted in many historical accounts to have been in the valley for centuries.

The Hiilawe Falls were flowing January of 2020. The twin falls are a 1,400 foot drop.

Domesticated dogs and people playing on the beach and surf

Cliff Fishing or Cliff Jumping? Your Choice.

Off of South Point Road, I chatted with a native boy perched in a precarious foothold at the edge of a sheer forty foot cliff. He was expertly casting a heavy pole, a craft he had honed in, perhaps seven or eight years of his entire life? Most of the fisherman here at Ka Lae, or the SouthernMost point in the United States (sorry Key West, FL) had many decades on the little boy. They fish for mahi mahi, ulua, marlin and red snapper. The strong currents and sea depths off the cliffs make for fertile fishing. If you have the steely nerves needed.

Slithering to be nearer the boy, with a pounding heart (me) I asked, “Are you scared at all?”

“Nah!”, he replied, scowling like I was the crazy person for even inquiring. (Sidenote: I am a mom of a boy who was once that size.)

Just a boy fishing.

Off a forty foot sheer cliff. Southern Coast of Hawaii.

“OK. That’s good. What are you fishing for?” I asked, noting his little red flip flops on the ledge, which seemed about the same shoe size.

Casting again, (and concentrating), he said: “Ahi.”

Any luck yet? Not yet, but he seemed hopeful.

Few people were there the day that we were. In fact, it was obvious that few people ever are, based on the desolate and dirt road required to get there. Casting a fishing pole with the constant winds is a challenge. Most of the trees are bent from years of wind.

Gazing south across the Pacific Ocean from here, it is only sea. It’s just you and the blue. Then, Antarctica. But on the clearest day you won’t see it. It’s 7,500 miles away.

Down the cliff from the boy was an old platform and (apparently) a ladder to climb up the cliff. I didn’t look. Two girls and a guy, maybe early twenties, were assessing it for a jump. Well, one girl was. It was her first time. The other one said she had jumped before. She said she was not going to do it because, “I broke my back the last time.”

The guy jumped. He seemed to do it regularly and said it was a rush. The water was so warm, he said shaking droplets from his head as he ascended the top rung. The girl (who hadn’t broken her back) needed much more time to get psyched. Finally she jumped with her friends snapping their phones. She came up the ladder smiling, and in one piece.

Fishermen fishing the fertile waters of Ka Lae.

Green Sand Beach

At the south end of the Hawaiian Island, about four miles east of Ka Lae (SouthernMost Point) is a beach composed of beautiful, olivine crystals. Green. Yes, the same silicate mineral known as August’s birthstone, the Peridot. (Perhaps a new gift idea for August babies: why not sunbath on olivine sands & peridots?) The beach shows off different shades and depths of green, depending on which way the sun hits it. The beach is also known as Papakolea Beach.

It’s a geological wonder of the world, with many geologists agreeing that there are only three other beaches in the world with the same makeup: Guam, Galapagos Islands and Norway.

The tight turquoise bay is framed by the ridge formations of the volcanic cone that feeds the olivine material to the beach as it erodes. In other words, it’s constantly resupplied. The lighter, more common sands are washed out, leaving the heavier green micro crystals. Eventually, the material will cease to erode and the green sand beach will appear more of the common color. Eventually, meaning in geological time, not in vacation planning time.

Hiking from the trailhead in the strong (warm) winds is about two and a half miles. If you have sensitive eyes, best to wear eye protection. Plan to get dirty, depending on the winds and the stirred up dirt. As with many places in rural Hawaii, there are no signs pointing the way. There are numerous, rugged “roads” in a quarter mile wide swath along the coast that will get you there, along with many pickup truck outfitters that offer a cheap ride…in the bed. You can always drive. If you have a 4×4. But be prepared to be high centered. These are very rugged and primitive “roads”.

The destination beach is, of course, one in a million. Green.

The Newest Beach on Earth: Pohoiki, Another Black Sand Beach

There’s something about a black sand beach that is mystical. Add turquoise waters, foaming white surf and the day’s bright sun and you’ve stepped onto one of the exotic wonders of the world. The black beaches born of volcanoes had violent, explosive births. And, don’t forget to test the temperature before bare feet: the noir sands can be much warmer than their beige counterparts when the sun is shining bright.

In the 2018, the eruption of the Lower East Rift Zone (LERZ) of the Kilauea Volcano made news, destroyed hundreds of houses, blocked infrastructure and reshaped the coastline. So much was lost for so many people, along with stunning places like the Ahalanui Hot Ponds and Kapoho Tide Pools.

When the lava had cooled, over 1 square mile of new land existed. At Isaac Hale Beach Park, the massive remodel by nature includes a brand new beach. That means that the Pohoiki Black Sand Beach was created in 2018, earning the title of the newest beach on the planet. As hundreds of acres of lava flowed into the ocean, fine black sand was created in a violent meeting of molten rock and sea.

Isaac Hale Park is now much different than the locals grew up with. A substantial concrete boat launch and pier now leads to a small, orphaned body of water. A boat launch to nowhere. When we visited in January of 2020, a number of people were swimming in the newly created pools.

Boat Launch to Nowhere at Isaac Hale Park. Ocean access cut off by lava flow of 2018. Photo taken January 2020.

Black sand beaches are common on the Big Island. Much more common are the black rocky beaches with varying shelves and angles.

Noir Sand, hotter under the Hawaiian sun

Getting to remote places

Getting to the some of the wildest (and best) spots on Hawaii can be a challenge. But worth it! It helps to keep reminding yourself to enjoy the journey, not just the destination.

Waipio Valley. Trekking to the base of the valley, the black beach and the Falls, requires a round trip hike of about 3 miles, and another mile or two in the valley depending on your direction. Much of it is a 25-30% grade. We chose to drive down in the 4×4 and do our hiking in the valley, enabling us to cover much more ground. The drive is not recommended for the inexperienced off-roader. Caution signs abound up top. Vehicle rental agreements may not apply here.

Another hard to access spot is The Pololu Valley, located on the north eastern side of the island. It’s located just past the quaint towns of Hawi and Kapaau perched on the north coast. Directions are easy: 1) Stay on 270 until it stops. (2) Get out of car and prepare to be blown away at the Pololu Valley Lookout.

While the lookout provides amazing views, it’s definitely a worthy hike to the valley floor to see the black sand beach and just breathe in this sacred valley. A bonus is huge photo opportunities from some of the trail switchback platforms. From the trailhead, the beach and valley is about a quarter mile, but steep and rocky. Many people use the term “treacherous” and it can be much more so in wet weather. If you’re careful, have good shoes and are in decent shape it’s a very doable hike. Ironically, the top of the trail is probably the most difficult and steep with the fewest footholds. At the top, be aware of limited parking. You’ll see a few danger signs as well as piles of walking sticks.

Scenes from wild Hawaii, January 2020

Hawaii is a hotspot: Two Ways

Hawaii’s weather is perfect: stable and hot, with average high temperatures fluctuating in the 80s. The sun glows red when setting on the west coast just as live lava does before cooling to black.

Temperatures aside, Hawaii’s big island is a geological hotspot too. Mauna Loa and Kilauea are two of the earth’s most active volcanoes. Lava fields and formations are everywhere on the big island of Hawaii. Some is old, some is new, much is covered. Eruptions of molten rock are over 2,000 degrees and the way it cools determines the finished product. The smooth, glossy rope-like lava stays hotter when flowing. The chunky, sharp lava moved fast and cooled quickly.

Driving almost anywhere will take you alongside vast lava fields. We bumped through miles of it to get to secluded beaches and the tallest vistas. To get the most varied views, a trip to Volcanoes National Park should be on the list. You’ll see the different types of lava fields, the sculpture-like formations, lava tubes (tunnels) and massive craters.

Or, just take your towel to almost any beach.